Princess Diamond
Learn about princess cut lab-grown diamonds for engagement rings. Aurela Diamonds' expert guide covers ideal proportions, corner protection, and why this square shape is a brilliant choice.
The princess cut is the most popular square diamond shape for engagement rings, and it earns that distinction through a combination of bold geometry and intense brilliance. Its sharp, uncut corners and pyramidal profile give it a contemporary, architectural feel, while its brilliant-style faceting, typically 57 or 76 facets depending on the number of chevron patterns, delivers a level of sparkle that rivals the round brilliant. The princess is the shape for buyers who want something modern and decisive without sacrificing light performance.
One of the princess cut's most appealing qualities is its efficient use of rough diamond crystal. Because the princess cut closely follows the natural octahedral shape of a diamond crystal, less material is wasted during cutting compared to a round brilliant. This translates directly into a lower price per carat, making the princess an outstanding value proposition. You get bold sparkle, a distinctive square footprint, and a more accessible price point, a combination that has kept the princess among the top three most popular shapes for decades.
At Aurela Diamonds, we carry IGI-certified lab-grown princess cuts that meet our strict standards for symmetry, light performance, and structural integrity. Because the princess's sharp corners require thoughtful setting design, we advise our Vancouver clients on protective prong configurations and setting styles that keep those corners safe while showcasing the shape's angular beauty.
History of the Princess Cut
The princess cut as we know it today was developed in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, who refined earlier square brilliant concepts into a commercially viable shape with optimised light performance. Their design built on the work of Arpad Nagy, who created the "profile cut" in 1961, and Basil Watermeyer, who developed the "Barion cut" in 1971. Each iteration improved on the previous one's ability to combine a square outline with brilliant-cut sparkle.
The princess quickly captured market share after its introduction, becoming the second most popular engagement ring shape by the 1990s. Its appeal lay in offering something that no other shape could: the clean, modern geometry of a square with the light performance of a brilliant. While the round remained dominant, the princess carved out a permanent niche among buyers who wanted a contemporary alternative. The shape's name, chosen for its marketability, certainly did not hurt its popularity either.
Princess Diamond Characteristics
Pros & Cons
+Advantages
- Bold, modern square silhouette with brilliant-cut sparkle that rivals round diamonds
- Excellent value: retains more rough during cutting, resulting in lower price per carat
- Hides inclusions well due to its complex brilliant faceting
- Makes a strong geometric statement on the hand
- Pairs well with channel-set or bar-set side stones for a sleek, contemporary band
-Considerations
- Sharp, exposed corners are the most vulnerable to chipping of any diamond shape and require protective prong settings
- Deeper depth percentage means a princess can face up smaller than other shapes at the same carat weight
- Colour is slightly more visible than in round brilliants, particularly in the corners
- Quality varies significantly between different chevron patterns, and cut grades are not standardised for princess cuts
Best For
Recommended Ring Settings
Solitaire
A four-prong solitaire with V-tip prongs at all four corners is the ideal combination of showcase and protection for a princess cut.
View Guide →Halo
A square halo frames the princess cut perfectly, adding size and sparkle while the surrounding stones help protect the exposed corners.
View Guide →Pave
A pave band complements the princess's brilliance with continuous sparkle, and the modern aesthetic of both elements creates a cohesive, contemporary design.
View Guide →Buying Tips for Princess Diamonds
Corner protection is non-negotiable. Ensure your setting uses V-tip prongs, bezel corners, or a full bezel to guard all four sharp corners against impact damage.
Princess cuts can have a wide range of depth percentages. Aim for 64-72% for the best face-up size. Very deep stones (above 75%) will look smaller than their carat weight suggests.
The number of chevron facets (2, 3, or 4 per quarter) affects the light pattern. Two-chevron patterns produce bolder, broader flashes; four-chevron patterns create a finer, more scintillating sparkle.
Lab-grown princess cuts offer remarkable value, as the efficient use of rough keeps prices low, and you can typically afford significantly more carat weight than with a mined round.
When buying online, look for an image or video that shows the diamond from a top-down view. This reveals the symmetry of the chevron pattern and any dark areas in the corners.
Frequently Asked Questions
Explore Other Diamond Shapes
Compare different shapes to find the perfect match for your style.
Ready to Find Your Perfect Diamond?
Explore our collection of stunning lab-grown diamond rings or design your own custom piece.