Asscher Diamond
Explore the Art Deco elegance of the Asscher cut lab-grown diamond. Aurela Diamonds' guide covers the mesmerising windmill effect, clarity tips, and ideal settings for this vintage shape.
The Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with deeply cropped corners that create a distinctive octagonal silhouette. It is the square cousin of the emerald cut, sharing the same family of broad, parallel step facets that produce the elegant "hall of mirrors" light pattern. What sets the Asscher apart is its nearly square outline and higher crown, which generates more brilliance and fire than a standard emerald cut, producing a captivating "windmill" or "X" pattern when viewed from above.
The Asscher is an unapologetically vintage shape. Its DNA is rooted in the Art Deco period, and it radiates the geometric confidence, clean lines, and refined luxury of that era. Buyers who choose an Asscher are typically drawn to its architectural quality, the way it transforms light into broad, deliberate flashes rather than scattered sparkle. It is a thinking person's diamond, one that rewards close observation and appreciation of its internal symmetry.
At Aurela Diamonds, our IGI-certified lab-grown Asschers are selected for the exceptional clarity that this transparent step cut demands. Lab-grown production is particularly well suited to the Asscher because it can consistently yield the high-clarity rough that the shape requires, making this once-exclusive cut accessible to a broader audience. Our Vancouver team helps buyers understand the specific quality factors that matter most for step-cut diamonds.
History of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, one of the most prestigious diamond houses in European history. Joseph Asscher was already famous for cleaving the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond, the largest gem-quality diamond ever found, and his namesake cut reflected his deep understanding of diamond optics and geometry. The original Asscher cut featured 58 facets with a high crown, small table, and broad step facets that produced remarkable brilliance for a step cut.
The shape became the diamond of choice during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s, when its geometric symmetry aligned perfectly with the period's design philosophy. After decades of reduced popularity, the Royal Asscher Diamond Company introduced the "Royal Asscher Cut" in 2001, a modernised version with 74 facets that enhanced the original's brilliance while maintaining its signature windmill pattern. This revival, combined with the broader trend toward vintage-inspired jewellery, has brought the Asscher back into the spotlight.
Asscher Diamond Characteristics
Pros & Cons
+Advantages
- Distinctive Art Deco aesthetic with a mesmerising windmill light pattern that no other shape produces
- Higher crown angle generates more brilliance than a standard emerald cut
- Deeply cropped corners create a unique octagonal outline and add structural durability
- Perfect for vintage-inspired settings with milgrain, filigree, and geometric details
- Makes a sophisticated, distinctive statement for buyers who want to stand apart
-Considerations
- Step-cut faceting reveals inclusions and body colour, requiring higher clarity and colour grades
- Does not produce the intense sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds
- Faces up slightly smaller than other shapes at the same carat weight due to its deep pavilion
- Limited availability compared to mainstream shapes like round, oval, and cushion
Best For
Recommended Ring Settings
Vintage
The Asscher was born in the Art Deco era, and vintage settings with milgrain, filigree, and geometric patterns honour its heritage while creating a cohesive, period-authentic design.
View Guide →Solitaire
A clean solitaire lets the Asscher's windmill pattern and architectural faceting take centre stage, with no competing elements to distract from its unique beauty.
View Guide →Three-Stone
Flanking an Asscher centre with smaller Asscher or baguette side stones creates a bold, symmetric composition with strong Art Deco character.
View Guide →Buying Tips for Asscher Diamonds
Invest in clarity. The Asscher's open, transparent faceting makes inclusions highly visible. We recommend VS2 or higher, and lab-grown production makes VVS grades remarkably accessible.
Colour is important in Asschers. Choose G or higher when setting in white gold or platinum. The step facets reveal body colour more than brilliant cuts do.
Look for the distinctive windmill or "X" pattern when viewing the stone from above. A well-cut Asscher should show clear concentric squares of light radiating from the table.
Because Asschers carry weight in their depth, expect a slightly smaller face-up size compared to a round or cushion of the same carat weight. Consider sizing up by 0.2-0.3 carats.
Inspect for "windowing," where the centre of the stone appears transparent. The pavilion facets should reflect light back evenly, not act as a see-through window.
Frequently Asked Questions
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