What is the bow-tie effect in an oval diamond?

The bow-tie is a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow that appears across the centre width of an oval diamond when light is not reflected evenly. Every oval has some degree of bow-tie, but in a well-cut stone it is minimal and barely noticeable. Because this effect is not measured on grading reports, you must visually inspect each stone or review high-quality video before purchasing.

What length-to-width ratio is best for an oval engagement ring?

Personal preference is the ultimate guide, but most buyers find a ratio between 1.35 and 1.50 to be the most balanced and classically attractive. Ratios above 1.50 produce a more elongated, fashion-forward silhouette, while those below 1.30 start to resemble a round stone. We recommend trying different ratios to see which complements your hand best.

Do oval diamonds look bigger than round diamonds?

Yes. An oval's elongated shape spreads its carat weight across a larger surface area, making it face up approximately 10-15% larger than a round of the same carat weight. This size advantage is one of the primary reasons buyers choose the oval shape.

Can I get an oval lab-grown diamond with the same sparkle as a mined one?

Absolutely. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically, physically, and optically identical to mined diamonds. A well-cut lab-grown oval will display the same brilliance, fire, and scintillation as its mined counterpart, and the distinction is undetectable to the naked eye or even under standard gemological testing.

Diamond Shape Guide

Oval Diamond

Learn everything about oval lab-grown diamond engagement rings. From ideal length-to-width ratios to avoiding the bow-tie effect, Aurela Diamonds' expert guide covers it all.

The oval diamond has surged to become one of the most sought-after shapes for modern engagement rings, prized for its elongated silhouette that flatters the hand and its brilliant-cut faceting that rivals the sparkle of a round diamond. Its elliptical outline creates the visual illusion of a larger stone, often facing up 10-15% bigger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight, which makes it an outstanding choice for buyers who want maximum impact on a defined budget.

What makes the oval particularly appealing is its versatility. It pairs beautifully with virtually any setting style, from sleek solitaires to ornate vintage halos, and its elongated form slenderises the finger in a way that few other shapes can match. The oval has no sharp corners that are prone to chipping, making it a practical choice for everyday wear alongside its aesthetic advantages.

At Aurela Diamonds, our IGI-certified lab-grown ovals are carefully curated to minimise the "bow-tie" effect, a dark shadow that can appear across the centre of poorly proportioned oval diamonds. We help our clients evaluate each stone's light performance in person or through high-definition imagery, ensuring that the oval they select delivers brilliant, even sparkle from edge to edge.

History of the Oval Cut

The oval brilliant cut was created in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan, a legendary diamond cutter known for his ability to extract beauty from rough stones that other cutters deemed unusable. Kaplan adapted the round brilliant's 58-facet arrangement to an elongated elliptical shape, preserving the brilliance and fire of the round while offering a distinctly modern silhouette. His innovation earned widespread industry recognition and opened the door for an entirely new category of fancy-shape brilliants.

For decades, the oval remained a niche alternative, popular among those who wanted something slightly different from the dominant round. However, from roughly 2018 onward, the oval experienced an extraordinary revival driven by celebrity engagement rings and social media visibility. Today it consistently ranks as the second most popular shape for engagement rings worldwide, and its combination of brilliance, finger-flattering proportions, and perceived size advantage has cemented its place as a modern classic.

Pros & Cons

+Advantages

Faces up significantly larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight due to its elongated surface area
Elongated shape creates a slenderising effect on the finger, making hands appear longer and more elegant
Brilliant-cut faceting delivers sparkle that closely rivals the round brilliant
No sharp corners mean excellent durability for everyday wear

-Considerations

Susceptible to the "bow-tie" effect, a dark shadow across the centre that varies from stone to stone
Very elongated ratios (above 1.60) can appear disproportionate to some buyers
Colour can concentrate in the narrow ends, so lower colour grades may show warmth at the tips

Explore Other Diamond Shapes

Compare different shapes to find the perfect match for your style.

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