Oval Diamond
Learn everything about oval lab-grown diamond engagement rings. From ideal length-to-width ratios to avoiding the bow-tie effect, Aurela Diamonds' expert guide covers it all.
The oval diamond has surged to become one of the most sought-after shapes for modern engagement rings, prized for its elongated silhouette that flatters the hand and its brilliant-cut faceting that rivals the sparkle of a round diamond. Its elliptical outline creates the visual illusion of a larger stone, often facing up 10-15% bigger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight, which makes it an outstanding choice for buyers who want maximum impact on a defined budget.
What makes the oval particularly appealing is its versatility. It pairs beautifully with virtually any setting style, from sleek solitaires to ornate vintage halos, and its elongated form slenderises the finger in a way that few other shapes can match. The oval has no sharp corners that are prone to chipping, making it a practical choice for everyday wear alongside its aesthetic advantages.
At Aurela Diamonds, our IGI-certified lab-grown ovals are carefully curated to minimise the "bow-tie" effect, a dark shadow that can appear across the centre of poorly proportioned oval diamonds. We help our Vancouver clients evaluate each stone's light performance in person or through high-definition imagery, ensuring that the oval they select delivers brilliant, even sparkle from edge to edge.
History of the Oval Cut
The oval brilliant cut was created in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan, a legendary diamond cutter known for his ability to extract beauty from rough stones that other cutters deemed unusable. Kaplan adapted the round brilliant's 58-facet arrangement to an elongated elliptical shape, preserving the brilliance and fire of the round while offering a distinctly modern silhouette. His innovation earned widespread industry recognition and opened the door for an entirely new category of fancy-shape brilliants.
For decades, the oval remained a niche alternative, popular among those who wanted something slightly different from the dominant round. However, from roughly 2018 onward, the oval experienced an extraordinary revival driven by celebrity engagement rings and social media visibility. Today it consistently ranks as the second most popular shape for engagement rings worldwide, and its combination of brilliance, finger-flattering proportions, and perceived size advantage has cemented its place as a modern classic.
Oval Diamond Characteristics
Pros & Cons
+Advantages
- Faces up significantly larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight due to its elongated surface area
- Elongated shape creates a slenderising effect on the finger, making hands appear longer and more elegant
- Brilliant-cut faceting delivers sparkle that closely rivals the round brilliant
- No sharp corners mean excellent durability for everyday wear
- Lower price per carat than round brilliants, offering better value
-Considerations
- Susceptible to the "bow-tie" effect, a dark shadow across the centre that varies from stone to stone and cannot be predicted from certificate data alone
- No standardised cut grading system exists for ovals, making quality comparison more challenging than with rounds
- Very elongated ratios (above 1.60) can appear disproportionate to some buyers
- Colour can concentrate in the narrow ends, so lower colour grades may show warmth at the tips
Best For
Recommended Ring Settings
Solitaire
A clean solitaire with a thin band lets the oval's elongated shape shine, emphasising its finger-flattering proportions without visual clutter.
View Guide →Hidden Halo
A hidden halo adds a subtle ring of brilliance beneath the oval without increasing its visual width, preserving the sleek silhouette while boosting sparkle from the side.
View Guide →Three-Stone
Flanking an oval centre with pear or round side stones creates a balanced, dramatic look that highlights the oval's graceful curves.
View Guide →Buying Tips for Oval Diamonds
Always view an oval diamond in person or through high-resolution video. The bow-tie effect is not captured by any certificate grade, and it varies dramatically from stone to stone.
A length-to-width ratio between 1.35 and 1.50 is the classic oval proportion. Ratios above 1.50 create a more elongated, modern look, but test your preference before committing.
Lab-grown ovals in the F-H colour range offer exceptional value. Check the ends of the stone for colour concentration, which is more visible in ovals than rounds.
Opt for VS2 or SI1 clarity. The brilliant faceting hides inclusions effectively, and you can redirect savings toward a larger stone or finer setting.
Look for even light distribution across the entire surface. A well-cut oval should sparkle uniformly, with no dark patches at the centre or dull areas near the tips.
Frequently Asked Questions
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